Winter 2010 Taste Of Hartford 1—Tisane Euro-Asian Café

Here we go again!

It’s the winter 2010 edition of the Taste of Hartford, which I understand will not be extended for a second week, as the summer 2009 edition was. Arguably, at three courses for $20.10, the Taste of Hartford is the best value of all of the Restaurant Weeks that have sprung up around the state. And Hartford’s restaurants don’t exclude Saturdays from their schedule.

During this winter edition of Hartford’s Restaurant Week, I will be confining my restaurant visits to establishments that I wasn’t able to visit during summer 2009. In an effort to reach as many eateries as possible, I will double up on visits some nights. There are so many participating restaurants, I still won’t be able to reach them all. Envy my taste buds, but pity my growing waistline, rising cholesterol count and nascent carpal tunnel syndrome!

My first Taste of Hartford visit was to Tisane Euro-Asian Café (an acronym for TEA), which apparently is owned by the same folks who have Half Door and Plan B Burgers.

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This stylish café with a laid back atmosphere has intrigued me for some time. At our end of the space, tables and chairs were regular height,

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while at the other end they were tall.

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In the middle of the space was the main counter, where muffins and other goodies were showcased.

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Running along the wall by our table was a large display of tea-related items available for purchase.

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Tea itself was once used as currency, as this tablet shows.

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The back of the tablet was scored for easy division.

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Obviously, caffeinated drinks can be quite the compulsion. Why, one poor gal was literally climbing the walls for tea,

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but of course she was happy to do so for her customers.

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A faux fire helped take the chill out of the wintry evening.

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We strolled around and surveyed the artwork for sale, including these avian-themed paintings.

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Apparently, the artwork changes every month.

Not only was Tisane’s ambiance appealing, but the joint appeared very well run. Credit alert and hospitable general manager Paul Alcazar

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and assistant general manager Ben Ossont

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for how smoothly the café functioned while we were there. We were also very taken with our Parisian waiter, Mehdi, who possessed charm and professionalism in abundance.

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But those who follow my writings know I’m all about the food. It’s the food, stupid. And Tisane’s food, courtesy of talented chef Jim Wishneski, 

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knocked our socks off! Rather than offering a choice of appetizers, a choice of main courses and a choice of desserts, as most participating restaurants did, Tisane offered two separate three-course menus, one Asian and one European. No mixing and matching was allowed.

My companion selected the Eastern-themed menu and found Nirvana. He began with an appetizer consisting of Chinese-style spare ribs bathed in char su sauce accompanied by a crunchy slaw topped with lotus root chips.

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His entrée showcased boneless braised short rib in a hoisin demiglace with green bamboo rice and stir-fried vegetables.

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This dish was as tasty as it was generous. He finished his meal with a brûlée of coconut and green tea tapioca pudding topped with rolled sesame cookies.

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The tapioca pearls appeared to be the giant ones found in bubble tea. And in the background, you can see that my friend couldn’t resist ordering an Oregon chai latte.

I elected the Western-themed menu and found myself following my own path to enlightenment. I began with grilled heart of romaine topped with Gorgonzola dressing and garnished with focaccia croutons,

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an idea that proved to be as delicious as it was clever. My main course featured wonderful, soft, housemade shrimp ravioli served with baby spinach, grape tomato and artichoke heart in a lemon chive butter.

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What a great dish! My dessert consisted of a frozen mochachino layering espresso sponge cake with chocolate gelato served with a superb miniature hot chocolate. But I couldn’t resist gilding the lily with a Bailey’s on the rocks.

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A tea lover, my companion was thrilled to see tea getting equal billing with coffee for once. A wine lover, I was delighted to find an establishment with all of the virtues of a teahouse or coffeehouse and a nice wine list to boot. We matched our appetizers with a Cupcake Chardonnay and a Root: 1 Cabernet Sauvignon, respectively.

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We paired our main courses with a Kendal-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay and a Beaulieu Vineyard Signet Collection Cabernet Sauvignon, respectively.

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Small wonder that everywhere we looked, the clientele seemed as happy as this attractive young couple.

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Tisane Euro-Asian Café, 537 Farmington Avenue, Hartford, 860-523-5417

3 Responses to Winter 2010 Taste Of Hartford 1—Tisane Euro-Asian Café

  1. Meghan Wishneski says:

    Frank,

    Sounds like your taste buds have had quite an exciting week in Hartford.

    I would be happy to share a photo of Chef Jim Wishneski . . .

    Cheers,
    Meghan Wishneski

  2. Frank Cohen says:

    Maybe I can swing by and take his photo to add to the piece. It’s the beauty of working on the internet. Once a newspaper or magazine piece is printed, it might as well be fixed in stone.

  3. Louise Wishneski says:

    Boy, are we proud of our son, Jim, the chef. Kudos to you both. What a wonderful review, Frank. You certainly showcased his food but what about his beautiful face?

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