“Another Italian restaurant,” I grumbled on my way to join friends at Tappo in Stamford. “Just what Connecticut needs.”
But of course there’s plenty of room for any good restaurant. And Tappo, which recently opened Bank Street in Stamford, is not just another Italian restaurant—not by a long stretch.
The food we tried on just the restaurant’s tenth day of existence bespoke of an authenticity found all too rarely in our Italian restaurants.
We were warmly received by the comely hostess,
and then joined our party at the bar.
I found old friends R.J. Marx and Linda Kavanagh in fine fettle.
A number of treats were being shared, including these marinated olives,
these polpettine di vitello,
this Reggiano Parmigiano,
these wonderfully light arancini,
this margherita pizza,
this pizza with sausage, broccoli rabe and Mozzarella,
and this pizza with pomedorini, speck, arugula and Grana Padano.
Thanks to this oven
and great know-how, Tappo was already producing some of Fairfield County’s best pies. I never managed to try (snooze, you lose) the pizza with guanciale (Italian cured bacon), potato and truffle oil that this young lady was enjoying,
but it sounded, looked and smelled absolutely delicious.
We got to meet owners Aldo and Joseph Criscuolo,
and then Joseph’s wife, the gracious and lovely Maria Teresa,
gave us the grand tour of the photographs on display,
and even this gem hidden in a stairwell.
My wife, son Jyreh (home during a college break) and Maria Teresa took seats together
in the attractive dining room.
Ann’s always ecstatic when she gets to see our son.
Nice bread,
Sicilian first-press olive oil for dipping,
and good wine (Tappo means “cork’) got things rolling.
“May you outlive all of your doctors!” we toasted.
Food writers crave new experiences. We’re the adventure junkies of the food world. We got to try two contrasting Mozzarellas, and the experience was most enlightening. One was a wonderfully chewy housemade Mozzarella made just an hour earlier,
the other an incredibly soft Mozzarella di bufala.
Make sure you try the two Mozzarellas together.
We food writers also celebrate excellence, and at Tappo there was plenty to celebrate. Study this photograph,
which may not look like much, but shows you the softest ravioli (ricotta di bufala and spinach), gnocchi (arugula pesto), and lasagna (asparagus pesto) into which you’ll ever sink your teeth. Incredible!
Everyone took an outdoor break,
and then we got to try another wine.
Next we sampled some really nice assorted salumi,
but a veal tartare with white truffle was the real treat.
A rib-eye steak—grilled, sliced and topped with arugula—was a pure expression of the cooking I enjoyed during an extended visit to northern Italy.
Our palates were cleansed (as if they needed it) with lemon sorbet with a sage leaf.
Then we were the recipients of a dry white wine
served in anticipation of delicious tuna alla Siciliana.
And finally, we reached dessert, which included a soft-centered flourless chocolate cake served with Piedmontese hazelnut gelato and crème anglaise,
tiramisù,
and pistachio panna cotta with chocolate vincotto.
After dinner drinks put the stamp on an unforgettable meal,
and then owners and executive chef Massimo Stecchi took a well-deserved bow.
Tappo, 51 Bank Street, Stamford, 203-588-9870
www.tapporestaurant.com