Press 200 In New Haven Offers Big Flavors In Small Plates

I was eager to see what the ambitious folk behind Leon’s in New Haven would do with Press 200, which occupies the former Nikkita space on Crown Street.

Nikkita was a place that my best friend and I used to favor for inexpensive but flavorful small plates. Given that, the new restaurant hasn’t really changed the underlying concept so much as taken it upscale.

But I generally believe in saving the best—the food—for last. So let’s begin with a tour of the premises and then we’ll get to the good stuff. Yeah, I know—premises, premises.

Just inside the front entrance is a small lounge.

Lounge space seems to be de rigueur these days in New Haven. Proceeding further inside, the dining space is up a slight step (over which I still manage to trip) to the left,

while the bar area is straight ahead.

Chalkboards display white

and red wines by the glass.

There are small tables that encourage the kind of perching with drinks and small treats that form the backbone of the Spanish tapas experience.

But Press 200’s menu is decidedly contemporary American. The restaurant’s stated aim is that “our meticulously composed small plates provide our guests with a premier dining experience minus the snobbery.” And indeed, down-to-earth staff like manager Tom

and waitress Nicole

strike the right note of casual professionalism.

But I’m sure you’re impatient to hear about the food. I paid two visits to Press 200, ordering once from the regular menu and then returning to try its prix fixe menu. Diners begin with bread

and olive oil laced with grated Italian cheese.

An amuse bouche of avocado gazpacho makes customers feel welcomed while hinting of delights to come.

From the regular menu, grilled prawns in a warm herb vinaigrette ($9)

were just wonderful (and I’m posting this piece now from the Philippines, arguably the prawn capital of the world). Also great was a blue cheese and bacon burger with Parmesan fries ($8),

for which I guarantee I will return (not intended to be a General MacArthur reference). Also pleasing was a hanger steak with parsnip purée and Brussels sprouts ($14).

Closing out our first meal was a lovely pappardelle with asparagus, morel mushrooms and Pecorino Romano ($10).

The prices were so reasonable for food of this caliber, we felt as if we had made out like bandits.

A week later, we returned to the scene of the crime. This time, we tried Press 200’s $19 prix-fixe dinner (inquire as to availability). For his first course, my companion ordered nice, plump, gently cooked mussels with saffron, fennel and white wine,

while I enjoyed the goat cheese ravioli with a sage and walnut beurre noisette.

For his second course, my companion ordered a killer risotto with spinach, mushroom and truffle essence,

while I enjoyed lightly cooked sea bass in a béarnaise sauce with grilled fingerling potatoes and asparagus.

There was only one dessert offered, but it was a good one—a mango and lime terrine with pineapple “ravioli” and coconut foam.

Rumor had it that Leon’s pastry chef was responsible for this tropical delight.

Two visits—two memorable meals! The only thing I would like to see is some more alternative music substituted for a 1970s-1980s soundtrack filled with gratingly easygoing music like Jive Talkin’, Karma Chameleon, Like A Virgin, and the Donna Summer version of MacArthur Park (also not a General MacArthur reference). Musical choices aside, Press 200 has brought an exceptional alternative dining experience to New Haven.

Press 200; 200 Crown Street, New Haven; 203-787-0227; www.press200.com