Parker Steaks & Scotch Takes Trumbull By (Winter) Storm

The town of Trumbull, rarely mentioned as a culinary hotbed, has shown real improvement in its dining options of late, paralleling the strides made by a town like Bristol. Three additions of note are Parallel Post in the Trumbull Marriott, Prime One Eleven and Parker Steaks & Scotch, a sibling of Parker Eatery & Bar in Stratford.

A winter storm that closed many schools (and restaurants) had lost enough steam by evening so that I and my restless companions braved the elements to try out Parker Steaks & Scotch, which we mostly liked.

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I couldn’t help thinking, as I entered the restaurant, that a cow divided against itself cannot stand.

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The restaurant was attractive in a contemporary way. The bar area lay to the left of the entrance,

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with some tall tables by the windows.

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The dining area lay straight ahead,

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where there were a few other customers who had ventured out onto the icy streets.

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The banquettes could have used a little cushioning.

While the restaurant’s commitment to wine was obvious,

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the wine list was a bit annoying, lumping wines by the bottle and glass together in a manner that obscured more than enlightened.

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Nevertheless, my companions and I were soon quaffing a nice Argentinean Malbec.

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There was also a nice list of single malts, bourbons, Irish whiskeys, blends and craft beers,

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including three beers from Lagunitas in Petaluma, California, whence I just returned from visiting my brother’s recently purchased cattle ranch.

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Of course, good beef is what a steakhouse is all about. But there were plenty of other nice foods available as well. We began with housemade focaccia

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and a white bean hummus

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(but no Parker House rolls). Both the Caesar salad

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and the pear salad

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were bright and fresh. The macaroni and cheese was a huge rich serving,

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the pasta tubes curiously stacked on end.

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But let’s get to the main courses. One friend ordered a huge slab of prime rib,

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which came with asparagus, mashed potatoes

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and beef jus.

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Another friend ordered the rib-eye steak,

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which came with frizzled onion,

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mashed potatoes, beef jus and Brussels sprouts.

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I ordered the porterhouse,

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which came with mashed potato.

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And then there were the desserts! Presented by the friendly staff were a lemon meringue dessert,

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a banana cream pie

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and a coconut carrot cake.

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Coffee

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and cappuccinos

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were ideal accompaniment.

Yes, Parker Steaks & Scotch is a welcome addition to Trumbull. But we wouldn’t want to find our favorite table taken, so don’t tell anyone!

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Parker Steaks & Scotch, 921 White Plains Road, Trumbull, 203-590-3400, www.parkereatery.com

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