After a beloved restaurant changes hands, it’s always interesting to observe whether it retains the qualities that attracted one to it in the first place or develops new qualities that one can appreciate. Meigas Restaurant, located in the restored Trolley Barn in Norwalk,
is an upscale contemporary Spanish eatery formerly owned by Ignacio Blanco of Ibiza Restaurant in New Haven and Ibiza Tapas & Wine Bar in Hamden. Roughly a year ago, Meigas passed into the hands of Guatemalan restaurateur Carlos Hernandez.
Not one to let the grass grow under his feet, Hernandez has worked hard to court the Fairfield County dining community. On Thursdays and Sundays, bottles of wine are half price and a special menu of nine tapas plus dessert is available for $32. Hernandez also holds monthly wine dinners. I have attended a couple of his Spanish wine dinners, which have drawn enthusiastic crowds.
The latter was a wild game dinner held November 6th in conjunction with Grapes of Norwalk. At that dinner, our plates brimmed with good food and the restaurant brimmed with helpful wine professionals,
who took turns addressing their captivated audience.
Ensuring that guests’ every need was attended to was Meigas’ attentive staff, including Walter and Mario
and Monica.
My fortunate guest was old friend John Simpson,
who with his wife Martha convinced me to try my hand at restaurant criticism fifteen years ago. And the rest is history…
A sprightly Conde de Subirats Cava, Catalonia got us off to a sparkling start. It was followed by good crusty bread,
which was paired with fruity olive oil,
in themselves worth the trip.
But a host of delights were yet to come. We began with a trio of hors d’oeuvre that included foie gras-stuffed albondigas (meatballs), Serrano ham-wrapped shrimp, and seared scallop with avocado.
Accompanying these treats was a 2008 Abadia da Cova Albariño, Ribera Sacra that happens to be a personal favorite.
I have visited this precipitous winery perched high over a hairpin bend in the River Miño, as you can see by comparing the label with my own 2003 photograph.
Our next course featured grilled skin-on wild salmon in a sauce of white wine, garlic, leek and asparagus served with jumbo white asparagus.
The salmon showed beautifully with a 2008 José Pariente Rueda, Verdejo.
Our third course proved to be roasted wild rabbit with polenta in a blackberry-and-blueberry port reduction.
A 2006 Vega Escal, Priorat was magnificent accompaniment.
On the heels of the rabbit came a delicate wild mushroom and truffle risotto.
The risotto was matched with a gorgeous 2003 Finca Monteviejo, Rioja.
Our fifth course featured Galician-style roasted baby goat.
Accompanying it was a peerless 2003 Páramo de Corcos Reserva, Ribera del Duero.
Finally, there was a dessert trio, which included a chocolate almond croquette with coconut foam and lemon gelatin, a square of white chocolate brownie with goat cheese ice cream, and a square of cheese flan with orange foam.
Escorting this trio of treats was really good espresso
and a Silvano García Monastrel.
I also got to try a glass of Silvano García Moscatel.
What I haven’t yet mentioned was the live entertainment, a musician named Ramiro Sosa,
and a hot Cuban dancer named Mayelu Pérez,
who apparently was still living in Havana in December, 1999, when I paid that legendary city a visit that was not appreciated by the U.S. Government, leaving Cuba just as the Elián González affair began to heat up. Enjoy these photos of the very energetic Pérez.
Pérez’s dancing was so infectious, even the musician and staff joined in.
Meigas Restaurant, 10 Wall Street, Norwalk, 203-866-8800
where is the spanish cook