Harper’s Replaces Centro’s In Darien

Always on the lookout for interesting new restaurants to bring to readers’ attention, I paid a visit to Harper’s in Darien last Friday. Harper’s replaces Centro near Exit 13 off I-95, resurrecting a name from decades past that’s still fondly remembered by many area residents. And while Harper’s ownership isn’t connected to the original management, it’s committed to the same formula of generous, reasonably priced New American food, including high-quality steaks and seafood.

So let me give readers the grand tour. The beautifully maintained flowers in front of the entrance reflect the new ownership’s commitment to detail. (Note the woman in perfect camouflage as she approaches the front door.)

A bar area lies to the right of the entrance,

which only grew busier as the evening went on.

To the left lies the main dining room

and the slightly raised dining room where my companions and I were seated.

Soon Elizabeth had a glass of Chardonnay in hand,

while John and I shared a bottle of Pinot Noir.

Harper’s raw bar selections change on a daily basis, and the ownership has plans to build an actual glassed-in showcase at the end of the bar. We kicked off our meal with beautiful Blue Point oysters on the half shell.

I love Italian crudo (raw fish dressed with olive oil, sea salt and citrus juice or vinegar) and I don’t encounter it often. I had hoped to try Harper’s crudo of the day (monkfish, scallops and calamari), but it was so popular it sold out. We ordered instead a remarkably generous and tasty crab timbale with fresh avocado, tomato and cucumber.

Continuing our enjoyment of Harper’s fresher-than-fresh seafood, we tried a bowl of hearty clam and corn chowder.

But the seafood starter that really blew us away was Harper’s clams oreganato with clam juice, lemon, bread crumbs and plenty of garlic. Served with incredible garlic crostini, it was simply the best clams oreganato I had ever come across. If you order nothing else, order this!

In an effort to sample broadly from the menu, we tried Harper’s margherita pizza. It sported a terrific thin crust and beautiful, thinly sliced tomatoes which the ownership fetches from New Jersey. What a difference a good tomato makes!

With pizza, I like to enjoy a nice salad. An arugula salad dressed with extra virgin olive oil and white balsamic vinegar and garnished with a Parmesan tuile couldn’t have been simpler or lovelier.

It was now time for our entrées. John enjoyed a full rack of barbecued ribs.

Elizabeth couldn’t resist a special of skate sautéed with brown butter and capers.

And I tackled (but didn’t finish) a magnificent, forty-day dry-aged porterhouse for two

served with a baked potato and spinach sautéed with garlic.

No one really had room left for Harper’s housemade desserts, but we would never shirk our duty. We had a square of carrot cake,

a martini glass of tiramisù with lemon zest grated into the zabaglione,

and an absolutely delicious Ghirardelli brownie served with vanilla ice cream.

Now it was time to meet the individuals behind this exciting new establishment. Flanking executive chef Erik Erlichson are Robert Sandolo and Joe Sandolo.

Joe, who owns the building, couldn’t be more involved in this latest venture of his, saying “I’m overseeing everything.” And he appears to have found a winning chef in native New Yorker Erlichson, whose cooking credits include two years in Paris, three in Sydney, and several in New York, including at La Colombe d’Or. For the last 10 years, he has worked in the Connecticut area, including stints at La Colline Verte, Saint Tropez and Sol Y Luna in Fairfield County. He says he tries to source locally.

Harper’s Restaurant has been open just three weeks, but already it’s showing real promise. Check it out when you get a chance.

Harper’s Restaurant, 319 Post Road, Darien, 203-202-9388
www.harpersdarien.com