My theory is that vegetarians and omnivores may actually have the same standard for what constitutes successful vegetarian fare—namely, that it slips to the back of their minds that what they’re eating is vegetarian. If the food doesn’t leave vegetarians daydreaming about their pre-vegetarian days or leave non-vegetarians complaining about eating “rabbit food,” then it’s probably on the right track.
Some omnivores, like myself, elect to eat vegetarian meals now and then because they like having a variety of experiences or even because it may feel somewhat lighter, more healthful and cleansing. They may visit a vegetarian restaurant or they may choose a vegetarian path through a restaurant that serves meat but could be considered vegetarian-friendly. Nearby vegetarian-friendly establishments through which I sometimes chart a vegetarian course include Miya’s Sushi, Ibiza Tapas & Wine Bar, Caseus Fromagerie & Bistro, Thali and Mamoun’s. Nearby vegetarian venues that I’ve enjoyed include Claire’s Corner Copia, Thali Too, and Red Lentil (which sadly closed).
Some of the best vegetarian food I’ve encountered of late can be found at G-Zen in downtown Branford, which wears its organic, vegetarian, sustainable heart on its sleeve.
According to its signage, G-Zen even offers organic, vegetarian, sustainable Sunday brunches.
Shape Magazine recently named G-Zen one of the top 10 upscale vegan restaurants in America, a real honor. In the kitchen, you’ll likely find talented Mark Shadle, formerly of It’s Only Natural in Middletown, who with his wife Ami Beach Shadle owns G-Zen.
The décor of the former Suburban is warm, welcoming and a bit quirky, suiting the personality of owners and clientele alike.
The staff is friendly and helpful, like our waitress shown here bringing our desserts. More on those later.
G-Zen offers a boutique selection of beers,
but we wound up opting for cool cocktails like this one instead.
We started our meal by sharing G-Zen’s dim sum plate,
a pretty and clever offering which included a fresh spring roll (foreground), steamed vegetable dumplings (middle ground)
and tempura vegetables
served with a fresh ginger tamari mirin sauce and a spicy cilantro peanut sauce.
For his entrée, my dining companion ordered the New Orleans Creole tempeh, featuring seasoned tempeh with caramelized onion, fire-roasted pepper Creole sauce, red mashed potatoes, sautéed garlic greens and housemade corn bread.
For my entrée, I chose the “rock the Casbah,” a Moroccan-style stew with tofu, chickpeas, peppers, sweet potato, onion, toasted fennel, ground cinnamon and other spices served over brown rice.
Neither of us are martyrs, sacrificing ourselves on the altar of vegetarianism. We found both dishes as tasty and satisfying as they were healthful.
That statement applied as well to these two desserts, which tasted as good as they looked.
No, not for one moment did our brains, urged on by our singing taste buds, feel we had in any way deprived ourselves. I recommend G-Zen not just for vegetarians but for anyone with a well-functioning palate.
G-Zen, 2 East Main Street, Branford, 203-208-0443, www.g-zen.com