I am periodically drawn to Hartford, not only by its maturing dining scene but by other cultural offerings. Last week, friends and I decided to make an Iberian evening of it, combining a fado documentary at Real Art Ways with dinner at Costa del Sol.
Real Art Ways was absolutely packed, but the vast majority of the hipsters conversing, munching, drinking, smoking outside, etc. turned out to be there for a gallery opening and a film to run after ours. Since our film was engaged for several days, we figured the dozen or so people in attendance weren’t entirely representative of the interest in it. And occasionally, our numbers were bolstered by an escaping reveler.
The film, titled “Fados,” was absolutely fabulous. Fado, which means “fate,” is a Portuguese music genre traditionally combining nostalgic vocals with a couple of guitar-like instruments. It has some ties to flamenco music but is probably an even closer relative of Cape Verdean morna. It was enchanting to listen to virtuoso performances, old and new. I was moved to the edge of tears several times. I ruminated over pearls of wisdom like “spring comes every year but innocence only once.” It was also fascinating to see how fado music bumped up against other music forms like Mozambican, rap and jazz.
Afterward, in a supremely good humor, we hopped I-84 and I-91 to Costa del Sol, always one of my favorite restaurants. Owner Pepe Feijoo, one of Hartford’s real gentlemen, hails from Ourense, perhaps my favorite Galician town. Below you see brilliant engineer Santiago Calatrava’s Millennium Bridge over the Rio Miño, its sloping walkways making it look like it’s melting into the river.
I photographed the Millennium Bridge from the equally dramatic Ancient Bridge, a Medieval bridge said to be set upon a Roman one.
Out of town a few miles, check out my photo of the dramatic Rio Miño from the vineyards of Adegas Moure Winery.
But I digress. The scenery at Costa del Sol is enchanting enough, thanks to its stylish mural of the Sun Coast painted by Farmington resident Emma Marianetti. I hope to dedicate an entire future column to this talented Argentinean artist.
If you blow up this close-up of the mural, you can actually see a representation of the restaurant, Costa del Sol, featuring a member of the Feijoo family wearing white.
My companions and I saluted one another with glasses of a lovely 2002 Ondarre Reserva, Rioja, Spain. We shared two tapas: chorizo sautéed with shallots and Rioja (but hopefully not the Ondarre)…
and piquillo peppers stuffed with bacalao and spinach in a yellow pepper and saffron coulis.
At Costa del Sol, simple but delightful salads come with many entrées. A sherry vinaigrette laced with a little mustard was the perfect finishing touch.
Our entrées shone. The solomillo featured grilled beef tenderloin with sautéed shiitake mushrooms in an Amontillado sherry sauce.
The bacalao showcased house-cured codfish in an onion and pepper confit served over sautéed baby spinach.
But our favorite main dish turned out to be the mariscada, a seafood casserole which comes in either a tomato garlic broth or a seafood garlic parsley broth. Get the latter—you may never taste a better broth.
Finally, we exclaimed over a stunning dessert assortment which, from right to left, included: rice pudding layered with mango coulis and almond nougat ice cream; a cheesecake fritter over raspberry coulis; a chocolate hazelnut truffle with sea salt and a mint mojo; and an elixir of coconut milk and limoncello. All in all, an unforgettable Iberian evening.
Real Art Ways, 56 Arbor Street, Hartford, 860-232-1006
Costa del Sol, 901 Wethersfield Avenue, Hartford, 860-296-1714