When one lists in one’s mind Connecticut’s best restaurants, it’s easy to forget the casinos. Yet the casinos include some extraordinary dining venues, none more so than Paragon at Foxwoods. Located on the 24th floor of the Grand Pequot Tower, Paragon enjoys incredible views of the countryside. The restaurant hosts frequent special dinners that attract both high rollers and foodies in the know.
It was a Molly Dooker wine dinner that brought us to Paragon on Thursday, April 23. I would not be exaggerating to say that this might have been the best lineup of wines I have ever tasted (and I’ve tasted hundreds of lineups). The fanciful, light-hearted names of the wines—Violinist Verdeljo, Scooter Merlot, Blue Eyed Boy Shiraz, Gigglepot Cabernet Sauvignon and Carnival of Love Shiraz—belie their quality, intensity and sophistication. Some are quite pricy, but the Merlot, if you can find it, is not only affordable but so gorgeous it will cure anyone who has anything Sideways to say about the unfairly maligned varietal.
Few chefs would be up to the challenge of preparing a meal worthy of these wines, but long-time executive chef Scott Michelson was up to the challenge. With the Verdeljo, we enjoyed Weathervane scallops with passion bamboo rice cream, red curry, yuzu and apple. With the Merlot, we sampled kippered King salmon with Cold Springs Farm egg, Stanton Davis Arm hominy and a Cabin Shaker coffee shot. With the first Shiraz, we tasted foie de porc with pistachios, port cherry relish and salted brown bread. With the Cab, we salivated over a Register Farms high-meadow lamb chop with fatty whipped potato, lardons and black vinegar. With the second Shiraz, we swooned over 70-day sirloin with a slab of (unmelted) Colston Bassett Dairy Stilton, double solera and shiitake mushroom.
And for dessert, there was a rhubarb meringue with white chocolate, lemon verbena and strawberries. After such an extraordinary wine dinner, we only wished we had a room.
THE VERDICT: There’s no better Connecticut venue to enjoy a wine dinner than Paragon at Foxwoods, and there’s no better winery you never heard of than Molly Dooker.
FEEDBACK: Tell us about your experiences at Paragon or about drinking Molly Dooker wines.
CONTACT INFO: Paragon at Foxwoods, 24th floor of Grand Pequot Tower, Mashantucket; 860-369-9663; www.foxwoods.com
Molly Dooker Wines, 23 Coppermine Road, McLaren Vale, South Australia; 888-637-4472; www.mollydookerwines.com