The argument could be made that Bin 100 in Milford,
a Mediterranean restaurant with an emphasis on Italian and Spanish fare, is the best restaurant between New Haven and Fairfield. Such debates make great cocktail fodder. But what’s beyond dispute is that few Connecticut restaurants provide a better combination of ambiance, hospitality and food than Bin 100 does.
Making Bin 100 even more attractive to me is the fact that they are big supporters of the Spanish wines of Grupo Bodegas Olarra. How high is my regard for this mostly Riojan producer? I didn’t hesitate to travel to New York City in February to attend a tasting at the W Hotel
featuring the Navarre Region of Spain
where its wines were on offer
to a highly discerning audience.
That outing was punctuated by (not especially Spanish) snacks by celebrity chef Todd English,
running of the Pamplonan bulls simulations,
odd cultural dancing (that also didn’t strike me as especially Spanish),
and brief stops afterward at notable Manhattan tapas joints,
including this one where the charming gal behind the counter
was at least as compelling a reason to stop in as the food.
The same kind of adventurism brought me to Bin 100 for a wine dinner where, frankly, the atmosphere was far more conducive to enjoyment and the food far better.
The attendance for the wine dinner was impressive.
Sponsoring the event were Grupo Bodegas Olarra, represented by Carlos Rodriguez,
and Grand Vin Fine Wines of New Haven, represented by Ben Tortora.
Bin 100 owner Elena Fusco was a most gracious hostess.
Here’s a summary of the dinner (sans tapas)
We began with glasses of Ondarre Brut Millennium Cava (Cava is Spain’s answer to Champagne)
and some tapas, including albondigas,
tuna carpaccio with pear,
lobster bisque,
chorizo and potato empanadas,
tuna croquettes,
and boquerones (marinated fresh white anchovies).
Bin 100’s commitment to its wines is evidenced not only by its wine dinners but also by its beautiful climate-controlled wine room.
After the Cava, guests enjoyed a 2009 Añares Terra Nova Verdejo, Rueda,
a 2004 Cerro Añon Reserva, Rioja,
a 2004 Summa Reserva, Rioja,
and a 2006 Finca Valdelagua, Castilla La Mancha.
These elegant wines were ideal accompaniment to the flavorful dishes we would sample. Our first course having been the tapas, our second course was shrimp sautéed in a spicy garlic sauce,
our third course was olive-crusted sea bass served over spinach with a Parmesan crisp,
and our fourth course was grilled filet mignon in a Rioja reduction served with a scallion potato cake.
For dessert, we enjoyed a caramel flan garnished with almond brittle
and glasses
of Reymos Sparkling Moscatel,
putting the exclamation mark on a great wine dinner.
Some restaurants can throw an impressive wine dinner, but their regular offerings aren’t as scintillating. Yet I might have fared even better a week later visiting Bin 100 with three companions and ordering from the regular menu. What a meal we had!
As usual, the restaurant was full of happy diners,
their every need seen to by attentive staff.
The tasting wines provided during this dinner would include a Victorino Albariño,
a Fefiñanes Albariño,
an Añares Terra Nova Verdejo,
a gorgeous Cerro Añon Reserva,
and an absolutely glorious Añares Reserva.
We began our meal with warm bread
and good extra virgin olive oil.
From there, we shared an avalanche of wonderful appetizers, including steamed mussels served in an incredible chorizo, lemongrass, coconut basil broth with rustic crostini,
perfect, lightly fried calamari in a creamy ponzu sauce,
delectable crab cakes with a lemon sherry aïoli and a baby spinach and jícama salad,
tender baby octopus stewed in a light plum tomato sauce with pine nuts, raisins, capers and Israeli couscous,
an eye-catching, cucumber-wrapped, ahi tuna tartare with pear, ginger, soy sauce, sesame oil and a wasabi aïoli,
irresistible polpette in a plum tomato sauce with fresh ricotta,
and a baby arugula salad with poached pear and caramelized walnut in a lemon mascarpone dressing.
Our entrées actually matched or exceeded the incredible appetizers that had preceded them. Having enjoyed a number of seafood dishes, we now indulged ourselves in a meat kick. We had duck breast in a pomegranate sauce and duck leg confit served over smoked applewood bacon and braised frisée atop a mound of potato purée.
Here’s a close-up of that duck breast.
We had braised beef short rib in a Rioja sauce with potato purée and glazed root vegetables.
Here’s a close-up of that short rib.
We had roasted veal in a wild mushroom cream sauce served over pappardelle pasta, topped with shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano, and surrounded by a parsley emulsion.
And finally, we had a 14-ounce New York strip steak Diane served in a Dijon mustard Cognac cream sauce with sautéed spinach and dauphinoise potatoes.
And here is a close-up that shows the steak in its full glory.
Finally, we tried some incredible desserts, including this bomba,
churros and chocolate,
a German chocolate cake,
and a wonderful tres leches cake topped with caramelized bananas in a coconut rum sauce.
Cappuccinos
and espressos were ideal accompaniment.
My wife’s smile of contentment at the end of our meal said it all.
A final reason to applaud Bin 100 is its upcoming participation in the Tenth Annual Flavors of Connecticut being held at the Aqua Turf Club in Plantsville on April 12th.
Bin 100, 100 Landsdale Avenue, Milford, 203-882-1400
www.bin100.com