Cromwell Diner’s Saad Brothers Celebrate Their Grand Reopening

Conventional restaurant wisdom holds that you shouldn’t try to be all things to all people, because you’re bound to fail. But Connecticut’s diners fearlessly attempt this feat every day. Few, if any, succeed as well as Cromwell Diner.

Those that do—and I could single out Parthenon Diner in Branford and City Limits Diner in Stamford for praise—tend to be significantly pricier. Over the past decade, most diners’ prices have been inching up to the point where they bump their heads on the prices of some fine-dining venues. But Cromwell Diner continues to offer great value, especially important in these difficult economic times.

Those who haven’t visited Cromwell Diner in some time might have difficulty recognizing it. The popular diner has been completely remodeled inside and out.

Miraculously, this extensive renovation was accomplished without closing the diner for a single hour. Then again, how could one expect anything less of folk from the country that built the Great Pyramids?

I’m no great fan of diners, feeling that many overuse frozen or processed products in their cooking. But for several years, I have been a fan and customer of the Cromwell Diner. My sister, Linn, lives in nearby Middletown. The diner has become a favorite place to grab a meal together. From the first visit, it was obvious that the food is a cut above that served by most diners. So when I learned that the Cromwell Diner was holding a Grand Reopening, I considered it newsworthy.

Apparently, I wasn’t the only one.

My daughter and I arrived ahead of my sister and her daughter. Tala found something to occupy herself in the entry,

while I grabbed some reading material.

We were welcomed by the diner’s gracious hostess, Nilgun Demircan, a Turkish gal so sweet that customers’ children ran up to her and gave her hugs. I was tempted to get in line.

Brothers Halem Saad (right), Magdy Saad (left) and Azmy Saad (not shown), who also own the Riverdale Diner in Shelton, have fostered a family atmosphere.

Most of the staff has been with them long term.

While my daughter sat waiting, menu in hand, for our dining companions,

I embarked on a photographic tour of the diner. Christmas had already arrived.

The diner was busy with happy customers,

including this father-of-the-year candidate.

When I said Cromwell Diner succeeds in being all things to all people, did I mention “sports bar?”

Naturally, I made a beeline for the sweets section,

which looked pretty enticing.

Enjoy these close-ups of the fresh fruit,

fruit salad,

chocolate cake,

carrot cake,

cheesecake,

apple pie,

and lemon meringue pie.

Muffins also looked tempting.

But the gelato display

might have been most seductive of all.

Everywhere I looked I saw happy customers.

Good food and drink at reasonable prices make for a happy regular,

but so does a personal touch.

Soon we had gathered the gang, from right to left my sister Linn, my daughter Tala, Linn’s daughter Masala, Linn’s friend Crystal, and Masala’s father Jeff (not pictured).

Tala and Masala are the best of buddies.

Our waiter, George, was friendly, helpful, and above all, patient.

The ladies ordered drinks

from the bar.

I needed my wits about me, so I ordered a black and white milkshake.

Tala and Masala followed my lead.

We studied our menus and the specials board.

Soon, wave after wave of food began to arrive. There was delicious chili topped with extra cheese, followed by

buffalo wings,

chicken and rice soup,

a house salad

with housemade green goddess dressing,

and tasty onion rings—all good.

Light years better than most, macaroni and cheese was made with a white sauce and topped with bread crumbs, just as my mother taught me.

But it was with our main dishes that really underscored the difference in quality between Cromwell Diner and most other diners. Look at these light, fluffy, chocolate chip pancakes with sausage links,

this hearty eight-ounce deluxe Angus burger with blue cheese,

and this scrumptious lemon and herb chicken.

I have railed against breaded meatloaf for years. At Cromwell Diner, meatloaf’s done right. Angus beef is blended with veal and pork, not breadcrumbs—again, just as my mother taught me. Try to find mashed potatoes this good at a diner, or fresh sautéed mushrooms.

Crystal ordered the New York strip. Easy on the eyes, ain’t she, guys?

Crystal’s eight-ounce steak and baked potato came with the best-cooked broccoli I had tasted in a long time. Rather than cooking it within an inch of its life, as most diners do, the bright green broccoli was lightly cooked with lemon, garlic and white wine.