One evening in early October, I headed to Ridgefield for a Spanish wine dinner held at Bernard’s in conjunction with local wine merchant Cellar XV and Riojan winemaker Grupo Bodegas Olarra.
As I approached Bernard’s, I found its walkway lined with pumpkins and fallen leaves. A hardy plant still blossomed before a window.
I was filled with anticipation. Past visits to Bernard’s had established it in my mind as one of Connecticut’s top restaurants—French or otherwise. During the summer, I had even checked out its casual new upstairs addition—Sarah’s Wine Bar—but as I had already dined that night, I didn’t get to try any of the food. Although ever since then I had been hearing glowing reports about Sarah’s from trusted friends, exploration of that more relaxed venue would have to wait for yet another day. The wine dinner was being held downstairs in the main dining room.
Nevertheless, I stole upstairs for some photographs of the friendly bar
and comfortable dining spaces.
I perused Sarah’s menu, which, while more casual than Bernard’s, still sounded pretty accomplished. Then I headed downstairs,
where tinkling piano music helped set a soothing atmosphere. (I hate to point thumbs, but this photo isn’t focused very well.)
A generous spread of assorted tapas had been prepared for the wine dinner.
To the side, a white-linen-draped table displayed some of the vintages we would be enjoying.
After everyone took his or her seat, animated Amanda Tatum of Cellar XV, a flute of NV Cuvée Henri Cava, Penedès, Spain in hand,
introduced keynote speaker Carlos Rodriguez,
who addressed the rapt audience.
Moments later, guests were helping themselves to the buffet, enjoying tapas like stuffed olives,
mussel and chorizo salad,
grilled marinated eggplant,
calamari ceviche,
and piquillo peppers filled with goat cheese.
There were other tapas, too. There was an octopus and potato salad, a mackerel escabeche, a white bean salad with cured pork belly dressing, a Catalan guacamole, a bacalao hash, a garbanzo bean salad with sherry shallot vinaigrette, marinated anchovies and Seville-marinated carrots. During this tapas course, we were given a red wine and a white wine. The white was a crisp dry Viura (2007 Bodegas de la Marquesa Valserrano Blanco, Rioja, Spain); the red a Tempranillo-Mazuelo-Garnacha blend (2006 Añares Crianza, Rioja, Spain).
But the chief focus of the dinner proved to be a seafood, chicken and chorizo paella,
which this close-up shows was absolutely loaded with goodies.
Accompanying this colorful paella were three lovely reds: a 2002 Bodegas Ondarre Reserva, Rioja, Spain; a 2004 Añares Reserva, Rioja, Spain; and a 2004 Cerro Añón Reserva, Rioja, Spain. It was tremendous fun going back and forth between three goblets, but I had to be a little cautious. I was my own designated driver, my Hamden home was 45 minutes away, and I knew that Route 102 was both tortuous and torturous with plenty of deer on the hoof.
After the paella was a cheese course,
which was paired with an absolutely gorgeous Tempranillo, a 2004 Bodegas Ondarre “Mayor” Reserva, Rioja, Spain. Our final course was a dessert platter featuring a silky flan and an opulent fig tart.
These desserts were accompanied by a flute of sparkling NV Flare Espumoso de Moscatel, Valencia, Spain.
At the end of the wine dinner, Bernard and Sarah Bouissou emerged from the shadows to bask in the adulation of their contented guests. Without question, the Bouissous are one of Connecticut’s leading restaurant couples.
Bernard’s, 20 West Lane (Route 35), Ridgefield, 203-438-8282
Cellar XV Wine Market, 88 Danbury Road, Ridgefield, 203-894-8690
Grupo Bodegas Olarra, 646-346-0205