I have written previously about the gourmet burger trend that’s sweeping through the Nutmeg State, and as a burger lover, I couldn’t be more pleased. No Connecticut restaurant that I have visited has taken the burger more upscale than Burger Bar & Bistro has. Burger Bar & Bistro is located on North Main Street in South Norwalk just across the walkway from Bowtie Cinemas that accesses the huge municipal parking lot in back. Burger Bar & Bistro’s “corner” location not only gives it great visibility and access to parking but an ideal setup for patio dining.
When hamburgers are prepared by someone who’s no more than a burger flipper, you can expect only so much from them. When a terrific chef like Nick Bilello devotes his considerable talents and energies to the burger paradigm, then you really have something. Here you see Bilello addressing members of the food media at a recent press dinner.
I was already a fan of Nick’s from previous visits to Burger Bar & Bistro, from his restaurant’s prior incarnation as an Italian bistro called Tenero, and from his earlier work at Habana and Ocean Drive. So when I was invited to that press dinner at Burger Bar & Bistro, I couldn’t wait to attend.
We gathered outside on the patio, enjoying (rare this year) a beautiful summer evening. Bilello’s lovely wife, Dana, entertained us outside with some delicious treats.
I maneuvered my camera so I could scope them out.
The first proved to be wonderful, housemade barbecue potato chips (see photo above), the second, fruit martinis featuring fresh banana, mango and papaya with a splash of Champagne (see photo below).
We moved inside and I was surprised to see that, since my last visit, Burger Bar & Bistro’s capacity had been increased by swallowing an additional 1,200 square feet from an adjacent space. Unfortunately, distracted by an incredible tasting menu and a parade of drinks, I only managed to photograph the bar area.
And speaking of drinks, Burger Bar & Bistro boasts a terrific wine list with more than seventy vintages plus an eclectic selection of boutique beers like Allagash White, Captain Lawrence and Dogfish Head on draught that has earned it the distinction “Beer Heaven” on our website listing.
With the name Burger Bar & Bistro, it’s a natural mistake to key on the words “burger bar” and miss the degree of sophistication suggested by the word “bistro.” If we members of the food media needed a reminder of the diversity of the restaurant’s offerings, we certainly got our wakeup call. Note that our servings were small so that our appetites would survive a multi-course assault. Normal portions are much larger than some of the photographs you will see, but examine how tantalizingly fresh and tasty everything looks.
Our tasting menu began with an appetizer course. One plate contained a barbecued shrimp with a cool corn and black bean salsa.
The second plate featured a pair of tacos, one filled with tuna tartare, pepper relish and cucumber, the other filled with braised pork belly and spiced peach marmalade. Both were just mouthwateringly good.
Our second course showcased a delicate beet salad with goat cheese, truffle vinaigrette and fresh mint,
our third course a luxurious macaroni and cheese. One of the few good things that came of 9/11, the eighth anniversary of which we just observed, was a momentary return to comfort food, with traditional items like macaroni and cheese taken upscale.
Our fourth course was Burger Bar & Bistro’s steak tartare, a retro item one rarely encounters that I just love when it’s well done (so to speak). Bilello’s was terrific, with mustard, capers, scallion, hot oil and cilantro, the potato sticks supplying a touch of salt.
Our fifth course was fish and chips, the fish moist, the coleslaw superior, the chips cut by hand.
Our sixth course was pizza, and being a New Haven pizza aficionado, I don’t generally find much in Fairfield County to excite me. But Burger Bar & Bistro’s pizzas were delicious. Put a boutique beer in my hand and a couple of those pies in front of me, and I might almost forget about Bilello’s burgers. Here you see a comely staff member bearing a house pizza with tomato and basil.
And here’s a slice from that vibrantly flavored pizza.
Now here you see a buffalo chicken pizza with blue cheese and celery, a clever idea that wasn’t “dumbed down” the least bit. Wish I had one now, as I’m about to plunk myself down in front of the TV for my first NFL game of the season.
Here you see a slice of the buffalo chicken pizza
and here you see the money shot.
Forget about Bilello’s burgers? I said almost. Because despite all of the other fun treats found at Burger Bar & Bistro, the burgers are still the most compelling reason to visit. And thus, our seventh course was a sampling of the three mini-burgers offered on the menu, each slider offering its own unique pleasures. One was the mini-ultimate, with Gorgonzola, sweet onion, pancetta and aged balsamic vinegar, the second was the mini-chimi with mesclun greens, avocado and chimichurri sauce, and the third was the mini-Rob with chili-accented sour cream, guacamole and pico de gallo.
As great as these combinations were, what really made them explode on the taste buds was the quality of the ground beef. Now who wouldn’t want to take a bite out of that?
And speaking of quality of beef, our eighth course was a miniature version of Bilello’s cowboy burger that was upgraded with Kobe beef and topped with fried onions, bacon, housemade BBQ sauce and Pepper Jack cheese.
Gadzooks, what a meal! There was no letup (or letdown) with dessert, either. We finished with an “adult” milkshake featuring Kahlúa, Amaretto and vanilla ice cream and two “cookies” with white chocolate, caramel and sea salt.
I adore Burger Bar & Bistro. Bilello and his wife Dana are two of the nicest people in the restaurant business, and no burger joint that I have visited has gotten more mileage out of the gourmet burger trend or created more fun for its patrons.
Burger Bar & Bistro, 58 North Main Street, South Norwalk, 203-853-2037