I was sufficiently intrigued when I heard that a beer and burger joint called BB Shack had opened in outer Branford. When I heard it was cheffed by David Brooks, whose last venture was exalted Judies European Bakery, I knew I had to check it out. So my friend and I trundled out I-95 to Exit 56, banged a left on Leetes Island Road, banged a right at Route 1, and banged another right in about a quarter of a mile onto an industrial road that used to house Humphrey’s. And there it was!
Yeah, I don’t get a lot of daylight shots this time of year, but you can see the steeply peaked roof line
which produces soaring ski-lodge-like ceilings inside.
lounge is on your right.
It has quite a bit of space to belly up to the bar,
but there are also high counters and regular tables affording greater privacy.
You might be waited on by a serious Broncos fan
as you choose from a vast craft beer selection
and are served in glasses bearing the names of local
or not so local beer or hard cider producers.
But whether you choose the bar area to the left or the dining area to the right,
the best drink option of all might be being helped by a knowledgeable staff member
to select great beers for a well-balanced flight.
That same helpful staff can give you a little help with the menu. But permit me to weigh in on some of the items we tried.
On our first visit, my buddy and me were drawn by the wings, which come in three styles. We tried the Korean BBQ wings—and loved them.
We also tried a creamy tomato soup—it was masterful.
But burgers would be the main thrust of this visit. We enjoyed a Twenty-One Club Burger
and a Burger Special with Mushrooms, Leeks and Guinness-Aged Cheddar Sauce, both made with great meat and served on brioche buns made by La Cuisine, which continues Brooks’ good work producing the Judies Baked Goods line.
Here the burgers are in close up.
Here’s a nice pink burger interior.
And here, in close up, are their accompaniments, great frîtes
with béarnaise sauce
and a lovely slaw.
On our second visit, the soup was a lively Andouille sausage and chicken gumbo.
We also shared a bacon, egg and cheeseburger
as well as a half crispy fried chicken platter.
The chicken was marinated in buttermilk and breaded
and served with macaroni and cheese
and a vegetable.
Desserts were unusual, and unusually good, not surprising given Brooks’ bakery experience. They included a passion fruit-yuzu trifle
a Valrhona chocolate fudge cake,
and best of all, a coco-carrot cake, which was absolutely scrumptious.
At the end, we talked with Brooks about what he and the ownership were planning for BB Shack.
Who could resist such enticements?
BB Shack, 5 Sycamore Way, Branford, 203-208-2740, www.bbshackct.com.