A Summer Saturday Evening At Litchfield’s West Street Grill

While restaurantsCT.com’s Executive Editor Frank Cohen is busy painting the Capitol City red for “Hartford’s Restaurant Week,” Paula and I decided to head to the hills… the Litchfield Hills. Truly, when thinking of Litchfield, one can’t help but to think of the West Street Grill. So, for this sojourn into the Northwest Corner, the West Street Grill it is.

As has been the drill for some twenty years, James A. O’Shea and Charles Kafferman were both there to offer a sincere, appreciative welcome to all guests, and assure perfect service. Outstanding customer service is the norm here, and the snappy young staff seems to require no prodding from James to do the job as required, yet I am certain that they feel his watchful eye at every turn.

The discussions leading to our decision to dine at the West Street Grill included words and phrases like “farm fresh,” “creative,” “perfectly prepared,” and “light.” This is the place to enjoy a crisp locally grown salad, a healthy piece of perfectly prepared fresh fish, share a homemade sorbet, avoid the so-called unhealthy carbs, and leave feeling sated but not stuffed. James had other plans for us, however, transforming our plans into his for a “tasting” menu of so many of the treats available on our visit.

We admit that we had not been to the West Street Grill for far too long. My job requires that I visit many restaurants… and there are SO many. Paula’s job with UPS allows us to only ever dine together on Saturday night. So this was something of a reunion for us, visiting a favorite restaurant, and visiting with James and Charles.

Q: Bob, where are the photos, like in Frank’s journal entries? A: Sorry, I am not the shutterbug that he is. I didn’t take any. But I can recall the look of rich colors, and balance, and shapes of the food presented. And each displayed in a unique manner in mini champagne glasses, square plates, round plates, rectangular plates, and towers. As a course ends, we actually find ourselves anticipating the presentation of the next as much as the taste.

Here are links to (pdf files) the West Street Grill’s Dinner Menu Starters and Main Courses, as well as “This Evening’s Additions, Saturday, August 01, 2009.”

Starters »»
Main Courses »»
Additions » »

Choices, decisions, each as interesting as the next, constructed by Executive Chef James Cosgriff of locally grown produce, day boat gathered seafood, and small farm raised meats. James recommended the Soup de Poisson, he declared it to be “outstanding.” A demitasse of it arrived for each of us, and we agree. Charles came by to tell us that when this soup is on the menu his meal will include a bowlful, which he will sip with two hands, Japanese style.

Paula is an avid gardener of perennials, flowers and a small vegetable crop. (Certified as a Master Gardener by the UCONN Agricultural Extension Service!) Her appreciation of all the good things from the earth made her choice of the “Locally Grown March Farm Tomato Salad” a given. Rich, red, perfectly ripe 3/4-inch thick slices of this cherished summer fruit,  served topped with chopped tomatoes, fresh basil, balsamic reduction and Fleur de Sel… served just right at room temperature, kitchen room temperature, that is. I opted for perfectly chilled and shucked “Bluepoint Oysters on the Half Shell.” In recent years, I noted that many restaurants reclaimed the forgotten tradition of adding a tart mignonette to the routine offering of “cocktail sauce.” The West Street Grill’s “fresh lemon and watermelon mignonette” was all that was needed. While we waited for our ordered starters, a taste of the “Shrimp and Baby Squid Ceviche” from the full menu appeared. Crisp vegetables, tender seafood, chilled piquant broth… heavenly.

Paula’s entree was the “Pan Roasted Wild Striped Bass” from the menu. I chose the menu addition of the “14 oz. Bone-in Fruit Wood Smoked Pork Chop.” My decision was iced when I read the words “chipotle barbecue glaze” in the item’s description. While getting ready to go out, I had the Food Network on the tube, and they were airing “My Favorite Meal, Barbecue.” Celebrity TV Chefs were taking us to their preferred venues to get rich barbecue, and I guess I was inspired. I explained to our server that I understand (and teach) food safety, and I know that many today like their chop cooked to medium rare or less. I am still of the “Pork, The Other WHITE Meat” ilk, and mine should be cooked to at least medium. She explained that this cut is brined “Irish-style,” and although cooked completely to my order, it will still appear a bit pink. I understand that, and appreciated her caution and knowledge, and loved the dish. Paula’s plate was completely empty before I asked her how she enjoyed it. Obviously, she did. In fact, after she had finished, she declared it to be one of the best restaurant dishes she recalls.

On to dessert. We like to share a dessert, and enjoy a brief rest before it comes. Our order of the “Fresh Apple Crisp” was the right choice, as it goes into the oven as ordered. So, while we are waiting, who ordered the full plate of 6 homemade ice creams and sorbets that arrived? James did, we are told. Vanilla, blueberry, passion fruit, coconut, espresso, and raspberry. And did he also arrange the “Chocolate Bread Pudding” that followed? Yes, he did. And the Muscat? You guessed it.

From the greeting to the good-bye… and all that glorious food, hospitality and precise table service in between… our evening at the West Street Grill was absolutely perfect. The room was abuzz with the packed-house conversations of the many equally pleased patrons, James’ and Charles’ table visits, and the stealth movements of the staff as they navigate the room.

Thank you, James, Charles, Chef Cosgriff and the staff of the West Street Grill, both front-of-the-house and heart-of-the-house, for a memorable summer evening in the country. As we walked to our car, Paula suggested, “We need to come here more often. Much, much more often.” We surely will.

West Street Grill . 43 West Street . Litchfield, CT 06759
Reservations 860-567-3885 . www.weststreetgrill.com

One Response to A Summer Saturday Evening At Litchfield’s West Street Grill

  1. Great Restaurant. Let me make this clear: I’m not part of the restaurant, and have absolutely no affiliation with them other than I love their food!

    The first thing one should note is the service. When you arrive you are treated like an old friend, even if it’s your first time there. The hosts are two guys who know the area well and cater willingly to your needs and provide an excellent eating experience. Secondly, the food is outstanding. Being a native New Yorker and growing up eating at NY’s trendiest and best restaurants, to cozy unknown hot spots, it’s easy to be jaded. But, at the West St. Grill you’ll feel like you’re in a cool little restaurant in the east village south of Houston.
    Or you’ll feel like you’re in the middle of a beaucolic new england town. Either way you can’t lose!
    The food is progressive yet simple, with an emphasis on local produce and freshness. Last summer I had a plate of local heirloom tomatoes as an appetizer. It was drizzled with 12-year old balsamic vinegar and sublimely fruity oilve oil. That’s it. I couldn’t stop talking about if for weeks. The Diver Scallops are fresh as can be and so succulent, you start to miss them before they’re gone. The short ribs are simply triumphant. The pasta is always delicately al-dente and tastes like the pasta you’d eat in Italy, where the semolina is a part of the flavor, not a victim of it!

    Living just half a minute from this restaurant makes it easy to continually indulge in their food. But distance doesn’t stop anyone. People from Long Island, New Jersey, Greenwich, Stamford, Larchmont, Scarsdale, and even Lower Manhattan drive up to Litchfield to eat there. It should be noted that celebrity sightings are frequent minus the flashing cameras, because the food is the real star! With the likes of Kevin Bacon and Meryl Streep eating there it’s no wonder you feel like you’ve been treated like royalty. However, the prices are not only for Kings and Queens— they’re actually quite reasonable.

    If you find the Parking in front to be crowded, there’s plenty in back.
    I’m not sure if they take reservations but try calling them first and enjoy!

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