My experiences with airport dining have generally been disappointing ones. Captive audiences don’t generally lead to dining excellence. But when I heard that the 121 Restaurant Group was behind the much-talked-up restaurant at Oxford Airport, I wanted to check it out. Years ago, as a Westchester County restaurant critic, I had reviewed 121 Restaurant in North Salem, and knew this restaurant group to be capable of producing terrific food.
It’s certainly no captive audience that’s patronizing 121 Restaurant Bar in Oxford. On the contrary, this welcoming restaurant often has a wait for its tables.
How much pure airport business can there be, even allowing for the restaurant’s aviation catering specialization? And given the thinness of the population in the immediate surrounding towns, I have to conclude that there are a lot of people willing to take on a substantial drive for this rewarding dining experience. It’s a classic example of the power of word of mouth. The restaurant clearly draws customers from the dozen or so surrounding towns for its chic atmosphere and noteworthy food.
Bryan Gilmore’s menu is American favorites, whatever “American” means these days. All dishes seem to be designed with verve and imagination. Who could resist short rib pappardelle with caramelized shallot, natural jus and English peas? Or grilled swordfish with warm panzanella salad, asparagus and red pepper coulis? Or steak frîtes with green peppercorn sauce? Or seared scallops with wild mushroom fricassee, roasted red potatoes and lemon sauce?
There’s a substantial pizza section, and it makes my mouth water to read the descriptions. A pizza bianca with Mozzarella, garlic, basil, extra virgin olive oil and Sicilian sea salt. Or a prosciutto, cremino mushroom, Mozzarella, Parmesan and truffle oil pie. Or a barbecued chicken pizza with cilantro, bacon, caramelized onion and smoked Mozzarella.
But on this visit, our culinary focus is much narrower than the restaurant’s. We’re here to try the hamburgers, which are said to be noteworthy. The menu shows the kitchen uses natural beef on even the basic burgers but also has Wagyu beef and even bison.
The weather is terrible when we arrive, the porch definitely ruled out.
I wander around and take pictures of the happy drinkers
and diners.
As the sun sinks in the sky, the weather gradually improves.
I begin to wonder if there must be a rainbow outside, but until I examine my photos later, I, and everyone else, miss the fact that there’s the tail end of one showing through this window. (Click on any photograph to enlarge.)
Looking for a rainbow, I step outside, protecting my camera from the last few sprinkles, and presto!
Inside, everyone is oblivious, just enjoying good food and company.
The staff is in high spirits and very friendly.
Fresh water is poured,
we’re brought nice rolls and butter,
after which our waitress sees to our every need.
Although we’re on a burger quest, the appetizers are very tempting. There are semolina-crusted calamari with a spicy tomato vinaigrette, arancini with Mozzarella and a creamy Parmesan dip, Prince Edward Island mussels with white wine, garlic and shallots, and even duck spring rolls. But because my buddy is a wing nut (pun intended), we try fire-fried (whatever that means) chicken wings with chile-hoisin or spicy barbecue sauce. They’re absolutely delicious.
Then we turn to the burgers. My buddy orders the frog (sorry, France), which includes caramelized onion, Gruyère cheese, garlic aïoli and truffle fries.
I order the bison burger, which I later realize is a pun on buffalo wings, the bison burger finished with blue cheese and Frank’s red hot sauce and accompanied by celery-salt-seasoned fries.
Both are delicious, the quality of the meat shining through the elaborate accompaniments like the setting sun emerging from the rain.
It’s a close call whether we prefer beers or milkshakes with burgers. On this occasion, milk shakes win out, specifically vanilla
and coffee.
We return to our rental Fiat
and hit the road just before the sun sets.
Restaurant 121 Bar, Oxford Airport, 203-262-0121, www.121group.com